The manufacturers will usually list this in the description of their products.īudget Option (~$100): Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider / T80 and Hori Racing Wheel Overdrive / Apexįor those wanting to upgrade from a controller, but don’t want to spend much money, these might be the wheels for you. This shouldn’t be an issue on console, but if playing on PC, make sure yours is compatible by comparing the minimum recommended specs for the game with those of your computer.īefore buying a wheel, make sure it is compatible with your machinery (Console or PC). So set it up in a way that a ‘relaxed’ foot wants to press the pedal a bit.Read: Review: F1 2020 Is A Great Game For Experts And Amateursīefore purchasing any of these games, make sure your machinery can handle it. You don’t want to over-stretch it in the position it is mostly placed in, but you also don’t want to have tension in it of holding your foot back when going over a straight. We recommend setting the pedal deck in such a way, that going full throttle is the most comfortable position for your right foot. On Fanatec’s CSL pedals for example, this angle is fixed, and on Heusinkveld’s you can adjust this. But they also all have different angles of the way the pedals are place. There is a vast majority of pedals out there that practically all fit on our sim rigs. Just like our wheel decks, the pedal brackets are designed in a way you can easily adjust the angle of the whole assembly. If you’ve got a partner that can hold the Allen key, you can slide the upper part of the wheel deck higher/lower over the upright vertical profiles. Some wheel bases are heavier than 10 kg, and it’s difficult to both hold that into place and loosen/tighten the bolts for adjustability. While building our rigs is not any harder than the usual Ikea furniture, we do recommend doing this as a two man job. Once you’ve got the distance and the angle, you can setup the preferred height (C) of your wheel. Our DD Side Mounts also have slotted holes for easy tilting adjustments. Tilt the steering wheel by easily moving the deck along the slots. Because tilting the wheel has a big influence on steering wheel height, especially on wheel (bases) with long steering axles. Check what angle is comfortable for you, before setting up the preferred height. This is super easy to adjust with the slots build into the decks. Most road and race cars have a slight upwards angle to the steering wheel axle. Our wheel decks also have the ability to tilt your wheel. The latter is the most easy to do, but if you’re a long person you might want to have your seat on the rear-end of the simulator. If it’s bigger steps you need to take, you can either choose to move the whole wheel bridge (loosen the upright profiles on the bottom, and slide them forward or rearwards over the long horizontal profiles), or move your seat. If it’s just micro-adjustments you want, you can slide the wheel deck a few millimeters over the short 8040 profiles towards you. You can adjust the distance to your wheel (B) in multiple ways. The recommended steps to set it up are as follows: But, since you need something to start with, we’ve created this basic position drawing, based on our most populair rig, the Treq One: Body Length: 160 cmįrom here on out you can start fine tuning. You might even have ‘grown’ into your daily car seating position which alters the way you like your sim rig. Not only because of different arms and legs length, but also in their seating preference. BASIC POSITIONSįirst off, there is no ‘correct seating position’. If you’ve just bought one of our rigs (or are planning to do so) we hope this is a good read. But if you’ve just finished building your first rig, you might be overwhelmed by all the setup abilities aluminum sim rigs have. A comfortable seating position in your sim rig is important, especially if you’re doing endurance racing.
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